All things considered, the chief draw of Niseko — and Hokkaido in general — has to be the rugged natural surrounds and everything that springs from it.

For most people, this means some of the best powder snow on earth, though the Niseko area is also gaining renown as a summer destination. But regardless of season, visitors are bound to work up an appetite, and there's no better place to sample soul food made with some of Japan's finest ingredients than Niseko.

An Dining occupies most of the ground floor of Ki Niseko, a resort hotel recessed from the main road that winds between Mount Annapuri and Mount Yotei, a conical stratovolcano that recalls Mount Fuji. While An Dining serves breakfast and lunch, and features a bar, it really comes into its own at night, when the lighting is formal but friendly — classy without being stark.