At Kunsei Lover Fumo, smoking — of the food, that is — is so desirable that it appears twice in the name of the restaurant, first in Japanese (kunsei) and then in Italian (fumo).
The lover part should be self-explanatory.
Just about everything on the menu at Kunsei is smoked — the beer wasn't, but there was room for a smoky highball. As the master put it, just as there's more than one way to fillet a fish, smoking has its variations: cold smoking, hot smoking and smoke roasting, to name some of the most prominent methods.