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It has become one of Tokyo’s gastronomic rites of autumn. Just as sure as the leaves on the city’s many ginkgo trees turn gold and scatter across pavements, the latest Michelin Guide Tokyo hits the stores each year.

The 2017 edition was announced on Nov. 29 to the usual ripple of commentary in the media, both mainstream and social. As always, the reactions have mostly focused on the numbers and names: How many restaurants have stars this time, which places have gained or lost them, which newcomers have made it on to the list and who has fallen into oblivion.

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