In early September, the U.S. Department of Agriculture announced a change in international policy that will affect the way American consumers drink and buy sake.
"Japanese sake" in the U.S. will now be protected under the Geographic Indicators laws — the same ones that say Champagne can only come from one region in France, and Parmigiano-Reggiano can only come from one specific area of Italy. In exchange, Japan will recognize the terms "Tennessee Whiskey" and "Bourbon Whiskey."
These distinctions are important because of whiskey's popularity in Japan and sake's increasing prevalence in the U.S. An estimated 70 percent of the sake sold in the U.S. is made domestically, thanks to California-based producers such as Ozeki and Takara as well as newer, small-scale operators such as Oregon's SakeOne.