The only drawback to the sakura season is that no matter how beautiful the blossoms, the celebrations can get very chilly. You need a backup plan, somewhere you can repair to for warmth and sustenance. If you're anywhere near Yoyogi Park, you won't do better than Ostü.

This smart but self-effacing little Italian just a minute's stroll from the park's tranquil rear exit (on the opposite side from Harajuku Station) is a bit special. No ordinary neighborhood ristorante, it is one of the few in Tokyo to specialize in the hearty cucina of Piedmont.

Of the six years owner-chef Masato Miyane spent in Italy, five were in this fertile region to the northwest of Turin, known for its agriculture and wine. Living and working with a local chef and his family, he did more than just pick up the recipes and cooking techniques of Piedmont. He also put down roots, learning about the culture and people — and the all-important terroir of the nearby Barolo winemakers.