Under his fitted black vest, the man beside me on the train wore a white shirt, with long lapels and cuffs trimmed with black piping. A purple silk cravat billowed beneath his chin. Judging from his attire, I'd surmised (correctly) that we were both headed to the same place: the Diageo World Class Japan Final bartending competition. The realm of professional bartending is a highly idiosyncratic and captivating world, as theatrical as the kabuki stage but more intoxicating. Although Japanese bartenders lack the enthusiasm for tattoos common among the international community of mixologists, they share a penchant for sartorial flair.
The World Class competition functions as a lens that brings individual bartenders' skills and sense of style into sharp focus. Last month, 10 competitors from across Japan gathered in Odaiba for the Japan Final. Over the course of two days, the contestants completed a series of timed, Iron-Chef-like challenges: food matching, where each bartender created an original cocktail to pair with a particular dish; "cocktails against the clock," a high-pressure test of speed and precision; and "retro chic," which showcased imaginative reinterpretations of classic cocktails.
I'd arrived as Toshiyuki Kubo, a portly bartender from Aomori Prefecture with a booming baritone and a jokey demeanor, was putting a modern twist on a Bloody Mary. He began by removing his white tuxedo jacket, which concealed a tweed vest, and donning a matching driver's cap.