At long last, warm weather has arrived, which means more playtime in Tokyo's parks — from your scrappy, local patch of dirt to the manicured opulence of Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. My family's favorite is Yoyogi Park. While not the most pristine public space Japan has to offer, it's certainly the liveliest, with performers, partiers and all other manner of extroverts under the sun. In a land where uniformity and deference wield strong influence, there is something overtly democratic about Yoyogi. It truly is a park for everyone — a place where bankers, punks and pensioners might picnic under the same tree.
The city's diversity is most vibrantly displayed at Yoyogi's event area during festival season (May through October). Last weekend was the Thai festival. The week before had Mexican food and music during the Cinco de Mayo weekend. There are many more events to come (see sidebar), so start marking your calendar now.
Expect traditional music and dance performances, as well as food and drink from whatever locale is in the spotlight. What I like most, however, is how each festival draws fans, friends and citizens of the place being celebrated. Want to meet Brazilian families? Go to the Brazil Festival. Plan to expose your kids to Okinawa before a family trip? The Okinawa Festival is the place to be.