Tensions were higher than usual at GVGV's show last Saturday night that closed this Tokyo Fashion Week, as the nine-year veteran brand presented a stunning collection on a specially made shiny vinyl runway.

The first look was a long billowing purple dress with bell sleeves capped off with a sun bonnet channeling Daisy Buchanan of Great Gatsby lore. Another arresting creation — in which an orange tailored suit was coupled with sultry leather gloves and a fedora — could well hold its own with the likes of private eye Dick Tracy.

This collection at first seemed to be playing to a 1920s beat, but then it became clear that something more was afoot; a blouse with a mosaic print of stained glass, a curious skirt with staircase-like layers, and a column dress with an undulating bustline — there was, here, an undeniable architectural air as well.