Another week, another new building complex. After working our way through Tokyo Midtown, Velviakan in Ginza and the new Shin-Marunouchi Building, we'd had it with the hype and the crowds. Craving simple, honest sustenance in a quiet neighborhood setting, it came as a pleasure to return at last to Manuel Churrascaria.

The smallest and plainest of the three Tokyo restaurants that bear the Manuel name, it lies on the main street of Takanawa's temple district, a tranquil enclave far above the fray of Shinagawa. This is an unlikely place to find a Portuguese eatery, least of all one that specializes in the hearty, meaty flavors of the grill.

The red-and-green flag by the door marks its national affiliation, as does the picture of Prince Henry the Navigator. But it's the cheerful red neon sign overhead and the arched window with its inscription frango assado (grilled chicken) that really tells you what to expect. There are no fancy airs or graces here: it's a diner, albeit one of considerable charm and quality.