The first hint of what was to come were the three guys down near the jetty.

Their green jackets were streaked with white, and through the binoculars it looked like a sort of tundra-inspired paramilitary camouflage. They had construction helmets on their heads. Again streaked with white. And they were hopping around and waving their arms.

"The BBC are here," said the captain, as if that explained everything.