Japan's trendy wine boom ended a few years ago. Still, interest in wine did not plummet; instead, it normalized. In groceries stores, elderly ladies and hip twentysomethings alike scrutinize the wine shelves. At many Tokyo izakaya pubs, diners can opt for a glass of house wine with their sashimi, odenor okonomiyaki. Wine remains a special beverage here, but it is gradually entering everyday life. Its consumption has become less self-conscious, less inhibited and less encumbered. Wine is moving toward the status that it deserves: simply a delight for the palette.

That process has not been limited to Tokyo's urbane dining scene. For example, on a recent trip to Hirosaki, deep in the Tohoku region, we savored a long teppanyaki feast, downed with glasses of Cabernet Sauvignon. Increasingly, wine is not limited to the exotic domain of foreign restaurants; it also accompanies Japanese meals in creative and inspiring ways.

Some places (such as our own neighborhood mom-and-pop izakaya, a perfectly ordinary, perfectly wonderful place) are just getting their feet wet, as it were. They offer a token quarter-bottle of sweet, generic white wine of no discernable vintage or provenance (but with poetic Japlish on the label). That is how wine starts to take hold.

In the meantime, numerous more sophisticated Tokyo venues are totally at ease pairing wine with Japanese cuisine. These places make it easy for their guests to enjoy wine. They select an interesting wine list that goes well with their food. They keep wines affordable to encourage their patrons to taste and try. In doing so, they bring a new sense of adventure to the classic Japanese kitchen. These places deserve mention and in our next few columns, we will highlight some of the finest.

Among any list of Tokyo standouts, Torifuji would have to rank at the top. Located in Ginza, it is across the street from a ritzy Chanel boutique. But Torifuji is not about being fashionable -- it is all about pleasure. This modern yakitori wine bar is tucked into the basement. Its decor and food menu are simple and unadorned. The place makes no apologies for its single-minded dedication (obsession?) to the world of wine.

Torifuji's owner, Kazuhiro Harii, is venerated among Japanese wine cognoscenti. He is an unassuming, artsy-looking fellow who may be wearing a T-shirt and jeans when you arrive. Harii-san is formidably knowledgeable and he has been a longtime champion of Californian wines in Japan. In particular, he loves intense Zinfandels (we're talking deep, blood-red Zin here; don't dare tell him that there's a pink version). He began to introduce old-vine Zins to his customers years ago, when the grape varietal was entirely unknown here. If you hanker for something rare -- say, a micro-production Zin known only to the winemaker's own friends -- chances are pretty good that Harii-san has tasted it and maybe even has a bottle hidden somewhere in Tokyo.

Harii-san's wine selection is not limited to California. He encounters new favorites as he continues to explore. In particular, he is presently most intrigued by Rieslings. Among his recommendations: 1998 Egon Mueller Scharhofberger Kabinett (7 yen,430/bottle) and from Tasmania, the 2000 Tamar Ridge Riesling (3 yen,900/bottle). His tips for great reds are: 1999 Nepenche Pinot Noir from South Australia (5 yen,180/bottle) and 1999 Fazio Merlot from Sicily (5 yen,190/bottle).

Yakitori is one of the happiest, most resonant matches for wine in Japanese cuisine. Torifuji serves perfect skewers of tasty, char-grilled nuggets such as smoky shiitake mushrooms and juicy pork wrapped with shiso. The earthy, savory flavors of yakitori sing out for red wine. Prices are reasonable (generous yakitori assortments go for 2,150 yen and 3,000 yen).

Torifuji's wine list is ever-changing and it appears chalked in katakana on the large blackboard behind the bar. If you are in the mood for discovery, ask Harii-san for his suggestions. He tracks down some of the most distinctive, hard-to-find wines in Japan. Wine lovers who spend an evening here will know they have found a kindred spirit.

Torifuji Yakitori and Wine Bar, 6-7-19, Ginza, Tokyo; (03) 3571-4391

We've written before about one of Japan's most exciting wineries, Coco Farm & Winery, located in Ashikaga, Tochigi Prefecture, only an hour from Tokyo by express train. This beautiful little winery sits at the foot of a steep, verdant vineyard, making it perfect for a weekend expedition this summer. On a sunny day, you can enjoy a picnic with wine on the spacious veranda overlooking the vineyard hillside.

To get there, take the Tobu Isesaki Line express train bound for Akagi from Tobu Asakusa Station. Ashikaga is the second stop on the express route.

Coco Farm & Winery, 611 Taijima-cho, Ashikaga, Tochigi; (0284) 42-1194; e-mail: [email protected] English-speaking visitors can contact Bruce Gutlove or Machiko Ochi with their questions.