Morning dawns on Luderitz, but you'd barely notice. A dense bank of sea fog has rolled in overnight, and the small German colonial town near the southern tip of Namibia is lost; a place of shadows, half-glimpsed Gothic churches, haunted-house mansions and the ghostly glimmer of muted lights.
The salt smell of the Atlantic hangs heavy in the chill air. The mournful call of seals can be heard. From far away drifts the lonely honk of a trawler.
Most noticeable, however, is a spitfire burst of obscene expletives as Luffy, our guide, attempts to bring eight 4WD vehicles into order on a Luderitz side street.