You can't miss Rokko An. It's the flash new place in Nishi-Azabu with the brilliant white concrete facade, on the left as you wend your way down toward Hiroo. From dusk till 4 in the morning it gleams out from a long, low picture-window right across Gaien Nishi-dori from (and totally in contrast with) the dark and decrepit whimsy of the down-and-out Wall building.
Until autumn that same window was mute and motionless, a still life showcasing the latest creations of Takeo Kikuchi. What you see now is a gleaming modern kitchen extending the whole width of the building, with a crew of white-toqued chefs busying away over their work stations.
Jars of pickles and croutons and bottles of gourmet seasonings line the windowsill. A capacious refrigeration unit facing out onto the street displays tempting seasonal produce and seafood. Along the counter on the far side of the kitchen, expensively dressed diners pick at expansively arranged plates, sipping their soaves and chardonnays. The room behind them, like the facade, is decorated white on white.