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May 16, 2024
 

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TOKYO FOOD FILE

Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 21, 2001
Autumn's harvest among the bamboo
Autumn is here, the season of antipasti misti and fruitful mellowness. It's also the time of year, of course, for bountiful supplies of mushrooms and other miscellaneous fungi known collectively as kinoko -- like the excellent assortment we enjoyed the other day at Aburiya, an atmospheric dining bar just off Aoyama-dori.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 14, 2001
The bistro jazzed up to perfection
It's a hard job, as they say -- not that we're complaining. But if there is a down side, it's that the Food File's constant, restless search for new foraging grounds makes it nigh on impossible for us to revisit any of our great new discoveries, let alone keep tabs on all those tried-and-true, all-time favorites.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 7, 2001
Rinkaen: Those were the days . . .
There are several excellent reasons why we can recommend a visit to Rinkaen. Unfortunately -- and this is exceptional for the Food File -- few of them concern the act of eating. Nevertheless, this wonderful old place still qualifies (conditionally) as a classic of its kind.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 30, 2001
Oh, to spoon under the silvery moon
The harvest moon is upon us, and where better for viewing it (God and the elements willing) than the terrace at Tsuki no Niwa, the aptly named "Garden of the Moon." Not only is it a marvelous setting, it's hard to believe it's in the heart of Minato Ward.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 23, 2001
Arossa: Best cellars Down Under
When a recent cover feature in a heavyweight U.S. weekly magazine assures us that New World vintages -- especially those from Down Under -- are giving the French (and Californians) a run for their money, then it's safe to say that Australian wine has arrived. But we in Tokyo have known that for a long time.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 16, 2001
Give my compliments to the chef
There are many -- the Food File included -- who believe that Kazuhiko Kinoshita produces the finest, value-for-money French food in all of Tokyo, and probably the whole of Japan. So how can it be that he and his bistro-style restaurant remain so little spoken about by the general populace, or at least those who pride themselves on eating well?
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 9, 2001
Adan: A hidden tropical paradise
The chances of discovering Adan by accident are about as great as seeing snow in Okinawa -- in summer. It lies in anonymous residential territory in an unprepossessing quadrant of darkest Mita, well away from the regular foraging trails of mainstream Minato Ward. But even if you were to stumble unaided upon Adan's funky frontage of dark, rough-hewn wood, it is highly unlikely you would find yourself a seat.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Aug 19, 2001
Kao Tai: Getting down to the Thai essentials
You don't have to go far in Tokyo for good Thai restaurants these days. But when it comes to tracking down no-frills, down-home cooking -- the kind of simple snacks prepared by countless market stalls and sidewalk eateries in Bangkok -- then it pays to dig deep. Some of the best Thai street food is served below ground level.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Aug 12, 2001
The life of spice in the big city
Our column last month on looking for laksa in Tokyo generated a good number of comments and recommendations. One correspondent felt we had not properly pointed out that these spicy noodles are also hugely popular in Singapore, not just in Malaysia. It was certainly not our intention to ignore or slight the people or excellent food of that mighty little city-state -- it's just that we were not aware of any restaurants in Tokyo that represented its complex cuisine.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Aug 5, 2001
A trattoria that's simply delizioso
Delizioso Italia is a pretty unimaginative (and possibly ungrammatical) name for a restaurant. But there's very little else that feels out of place here. It's not a clone of the cheap-chic Capricciosa concept but a fine and friendly trattoria that turns out some highly enjoyable cucina.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jul 29, 2001
Hong Hu Asian: The cafe of Asian delights
The idea of the Asian-themed izakaya, complete with basic hawker food and crass giant Buddhas, has been with us for several years now. But Hong Hu is surely the first place in Tokyo to reinterpret Southeast Asian street food in the guise of a sidewalk cafe-bistro.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jul 22, 2001
A many-splendored world of tofu
Tofu is cooling, tofu is healthy and, best of all, tofu is cheap. And suddenly this sultry summer season, tofu is also totally trendy. Just like Shigezo Syoutou, in fact. Such is its popularity, it took us three attempts to snare a reservation at this laid-back basement dining-bar, despite the location way out past the bright lights of Shibuya.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jul 15, 2001
For those about to tapa . . .
In Spain tapas are much more than just food, they're a way of life. There's even a verb -- to "tapa," as it were -- to describe the act of progressing from one tapas bar to another until the wee hours, balancing your intake of alcohol with a succession of light snacks -- always standing up, of course.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jul 8, 2001
Hot on the trail of spicy laksa
How can it be that laksa, one of the classic dishes of Southeast Asia, still has not achieved recognition in Japan? You would think a nation that worships the noodle in any shape or form -- and is no longer afraid to flirt with "ethnic" (that is to say, Asian and hot) flavors -- would have embraced laksa, if only as an exotic version of that perennial homegrown favorite, curry udon.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jul 1, 2001
In praise of traditional values
Rustic, welcoming, friendly, relaxed -- these are not the adjectives you associate most readily with Daikanyama these days. Long since gutted as a neighborhood, there's precious little sense of community left among all the brand-name boutiques and slick, designer restaurants that have taken over the area.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jun 24, 2001
A simmering passion for oden
If MSG is the Viagra for flaccid taste buds, then katsuo dashi is the complex natural chemistry of full-force pheromones at the raging height of the rutting season. It awakens, stimulates and arouses those parts of your palate that the other flavors just don't reach.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jun 17, 2001
On a mission from Korea
Kimchi is not just a daily food for Koreans, it's a potent symbol of national identity. Hence the outcry when the news broke of Japanese companies marketing ersatz versions not made according to the traditional process. This was sacrilege on the same order of trying to pass off carbonated grape juice as champagne.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jun 17, 2001
Saikabo: On a mission from Korea
Kimchi is not just a daily food for Koreans, it's a potent symbol of national identity. Hence the outcry when the news broke of Japanese companies marketing ersatz versions not made according to the traditional process. This was sacrilege on the same order of trying to pass off carbonated grape juice as champagne.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jun 10, 2001
Zetton: A buzz that can't be resisted
Call it what you like -- drawing power, charisma, sex appeal or the Koizumi quality -- new restaurants need that extra something to succeed, no less than populist politicians with big, Beethoven-look hair. Zetton, the hot new place just up from Shibuya-bashi in Ebisu, has just the right sort of buzz. In fact, so strongly does it emanate out onto the street that few people find it possible to walk past without pausing to peer inside, look at the menu, pick up a card and make a mental note to come back and check it out soon.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jun 3, 2001
Kihachi China moves uptown
When Kihachi China moved a few blocks across Ginza last November, it was not just a change of address -- it signified a definite change of status. The old premises, hidden away behind Printemps, were smart but lightweight. The new restaurant is a mere five minutes' stroll away -- just around the corner from Matsuya's eye-popping, face-lifted facade -- but it represents a definite move into the mainstream.
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Was Onosato's defeat of Terunofuji an era-defining bout?
Onosato (right) defeats Terunofuji at the Ryogoku Kokugikan in Tokyo on May 12. While nothing in sumo is guaranteed, it seems almost inevitable that Onosato is destined for the top of the sport's pyramid.
Ishin struggles to set itself apart from other parties
Nippon Ishin no Kai Secretary-General Fumitake Fujita (right) speaks beside Yui Kanazawa, the party's candidate in the Tokyo 15th district by-election on April 28. Nippon Ishin lost in this by-election as well as another in Nagasaki held on the same day.
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