When a recent cover feature in a heavyweight U.S. weekly magazine assures us that New World vintages — especially those from Down Under — are giving the French (and Californians) a run for their money, then it’s safe to say that Australian wine has arrived. But we in Tokyo have known that for a long time.

We have a long-serving specialist online mail-order service (Village Cellars). We find bottles from Coonawarra and Hunter Valley in our street-corner convenience stores. And we have a clutch of wine bars — Uluru 125; followed by El Vino; and, more recently, the extravagantly named Underground Mr. Zoogunzoo — that won’t pour anything if it wasn’t fermented in the Antipodes.

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