One year after the Qatar World Cup, billboards emblazoned with the tournament's official slogan, "All is now," still stand by Doha's roadsides.

As the months have passed, the signs, in Qatar's trademark maroon, have steadily faded in the relentless glare of the desert sun.

Calm has returned to Doha, 12 months after the gas-rich emirate attracted hordes of fans — and rancorous debate — for the first World Cup in the Muslim world.