The perfect cone of nori (seaweed) delivers a satisfying crunch as I bite into it, its earthy flavor standing out on its own. The filling — rich, fatty tuna paired with takuan (pickled daikon) — adds a welcome contrasting texture. Just as important, this temaki-zushi from Tokyo’s Tama Sushi is easy to eat; the cone remains intact in my hand.

Temaki-zushi, which literally means “hand-rolled sushi,” was created to solve the problem of eating sushi on the go. While many Japanese dishes are steeped in centuries of tradition, I suspected this twist on a national favorite had more modern roots — and I was right.

Getting the idea rolling