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J.J. O'Donoghue
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Oct 21, 2014
Sushi Masa: Become one of the locals
Sushi Masa is a locals' joint, the kind of place where everybody knows your name; by the end of the night they knew mine, too. It isn't hard to make yourself known: There's a kitchen, a counter, two tables and a few seats, so conversations are shared, to which there seem to be no beginning or end. Thankfully...
Japan Times
COMMUNITY / Issues
Oct 20, 2014
Bicultural Japanese baby names can be double the trouble
What do the following names have in common: Ayeisha, December, Eli, Gabrielle, Haruki, Julie, Kaede, Koh, Leon, Louis, Lucia, Luke, Margaret, Olivia, Ryuken, Tobin and Tennis? They are all children's names — all but one the sons and daughters of bicultural couples.
Japan Times
CULTURE / Books
Oct 18, 2014
If you'd nuked a city, you'd feel guilty too
The author T.C. Boyle in the preface to his book "Stories II" published last year made a convincing argument that runs counter to the conventional wisdom to "write what you know." Boyle said: "A story is an exercise of imagination — or, as Flannery O'Connor has it, an act of discovery."
Japan Times
CULTURE / Books
Oct 11, 2014
How KonMari's phenomenal book can help put your house in order
Before wrapping up my interview with Marie Kondo, who might well be world's foremost cleaning consultant, I promised I would put one of her de-cluttering lessons to the test prior to reviewing her book "The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up." And so here I am in my narrow hallway, between the entrance...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink
Oct 7, 2014
A stroll through Nishiki, Kyoto's favorite food market
Nishiki Market's most famous son, the celebrated artist Ito Jakuchu, is probably best known for his elaborate set of scrolls called "Colorful Realm of Living Beings," painted during the Edo Period (1603-1867), when Japan was not open for tourism.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / KYOTO RESTAURANTS
Oct 7, 2014
Awomb: Make your own sushi at Kyoto's experimental dining destination
Before getting into Awomb, a few observations on queues and queuing. Or, in American parlance, standing in line (or on line). 1. Nothing turns me off queuing like seeing a queue. 2. Besides staging a crash outside your new shop or restaurant, nothing generates interest quite like a queue. 3. The Japanese...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / KYOTO RESTAURANTS
Oct 7, 2014
Spice Chamber: curry as hot as it's meant to be
Spice Chamber is actually more like a closet, or a long coffin; I wondered while I waited for my curry if I could touch both walls at once. At kappō (counter-style) restaurants, you have to leave your guard down a little. One of the attractions of this style of dining is immediacy; you can see every...
Japan Times
CULTURE / Books
Sep 27, 2014
The Rise of Sharing: Fourth-Stage Consumer Society in Japan
Atsushi Miura envisions a society in which we will own little but share a lot in his lively discussion on where consumer society in Japan is headed. I don't buy it — well, not all of it — but nonetheless it's an interesting and engaging analysis of Japan's famously sophisticated and discerning...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Sep 23, 2014
Kaisenyatai Okuman: seafood a fisherman would love
Okuman is all about the fish: head, bones, fins and tail. And eyes and scales, and entrails too — that's what you get at Okuman.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Sep 23, 2014
Wakisaka: comfort food on the streets of Osaka
Wakisaka is a mom-and-pop restaurant that specializes in Osaka's soul food: okonomiyaki. From what I could tell the small but cozy restaurant abuts their living quarters so that the pair don't have far to travel. Mom works the floor while Pop works the teppan, the iron hot plate without which there would...
Japan Times
LIFE / Travel
Sep 13, 2014
Kibiji bike path: eating local in the slow lane
It doesn't take a great mind to read a map, and neither does it take one to get lost. I found myself doubting my direction three times as the Kibiji bike path — one of Japan's top 100 cycling roads — wound its way through pear- and grape-growing country, past a continuous patchwork of rice fields...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / KYOTO RESTAURANTS
Sep 9, 2014
Wakuden: An early lunch of budget kaiseki cuisine
Wakuden in Kyoto Station opens for lunch at 11 a.m. Who eats lunch that early? To answer I arrived minutes after 11, thinking I would be dining tout seul. Far from it: The queue was out the door. The reason: Wakuden serves pricey kaiseki (haute cuisine) — sets starts at ¥6,000 — but every day there...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / KYOTO RESTAURANTS
Sep 9, 2014
Soba Rojina: Noodles handmade with care
Soba Rojina opened earlier this summer, and in a few short months it has garnered a reputation for its high-quality handmade soba. It's a busy spot and food takes time to arrive — not too long, but longer than some people might want to wait during the precious lunch hour.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Aug 26, 2014
EO: Top Kansai chef presents French cuisine with a twist
What makes a good restaurant? It's a pretty basic question, and one that I imagine is on most people's minds, even if you aren't actively aware of it. With a new restaurant, such as EO, this question and the search for answers are more to the forefront. What it boils down to, if you'll forgive the cooking...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / KYOTO RESTAURANTS
Aug 12, 2014
Mo-an: Lose yourself in hidden tranquility
Mo-an is a good friend's favorite place in Kyoto. She's born and bred here, and like many a Kyotoite her enthusiasm for the old capital can be a little boorish. But with Mo-an I can see why. It advertises itself as a "quite place in a peaceful grove, close to the heart of tea." It is. But, let me try...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / KYOTO RESTAURANTS
Aug 12, 2014
Tohkasaikan: Chinese food in a location that (almost) justifies the price
Let me first introduce the elevator at Tohkasaikan, a beautiful old Otis workhorse operated by levers and pulleys replete with a dial that wavers as you ascend. It is, in fact, the oldest elevator in Japan, and in a country where taking an elevator is about as quotidian as it comes, this elevator is...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Jul 22, 2014
Berry's Cafe: Burgers so good you can forgive the decor
Osaka's Minami-Ibaraki is noteworthy for (at least) two things: a vertiginous lattice of train tracks and elevated highways topped by a monorail, and "Until Sun Child Rises," a giant statue of a yellow anime-like astronaut boy that stands outside the train station. To this list, add Berry's Cafe, which...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Jul 22, 2014
Pancotei: 'Kushikatsu' morsels prepared with obsessive care
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Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / KYOTO RESTAURANTS
Jul 8, 2014
Aoi-jaya: Traditional Japanese cuisine without the traditional price tag
A combination of train delays and the restaurant I had intended to eat at closing earlier than advertised meant that I had to find a replacement on the hoof. Fortunately, I was in the Isetan department store in Kyoto Station. The top two floors are given over to restaurants: the 10th floor to mostly...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / KYOTO RESTAURANTS
Jul 8, 2014
Nakamuraken: refuge from summer in a glass of shaved ice
With months of nothing but sun, Japanese summers can sap your will to live. Be grateful, then, for the arrival of kakigōri (shaved ice). In fact, it's about the only thing to look forward to between now and November.

Longform

Rows of irises resemble a rice field at the Peter Walker-designed Toyota Municipal Museum of Art.
The 'outsiders' creating some of Japan's greenest spaces