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April 29, 2024
 

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Samuel Thomas

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Samuel Thomas
Samuel Thomas is a fashion writer and lecturer in fashion media at Bunka Gakuen University. He regularly contributes to The Japan Times, among other publications, and provides consultancy services to industry clients.
For Samuel Thomas's latest contributions to The Japan Times, see below:
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Oct 27, 2019
When street style eclipses the runway
Tokyo fashion week's battle for identity has always been between that of the runway and the fashion on streets — has the event finally found a happy medium?
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Sep 29, 2019
Tokyo's fashion week gets a Japan rebrand
As the new sponsor of Tokyo's fashion week, e-commerce giant Rakuten may appear lowbrow — but in times of rising subculture trends, that could work in its favor.
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Aug 25, 2019
The changing face of fashion in Japan
Collaborations, ethical statements and flashback trends — is Japanese fashion going through an identity crisis?
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Jun 23, 2019
Fashion-forward trends still hark back
My mentor in all things fashion, a Parisienne buyer who prefers to remain unnamed, once confidently asserted in her usual grandiose manner, "You know that fashion is over when designers start relying on irony." She was referring to the "it's cool because it isn't, you probably wouldn't understand" school of thought that is the realm of the least self-aware hipster.
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
May 12, 2019
Can a new era prepare Japanese style to let go of Heisei trends?
It's early days of Reiwa, but so far, Japan's fashion industry looks set to continue playing it safe in the new era.
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Mar 24, 2019
Fashion week applauds Fukushima Pride
Though it has been 12 years since Junko Koshino's designs hit Tokyo fashion week runways, the acclaimed designer shines her spotlight on Fukushima handicraft artisans.
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Jan 27, 2019
Fashion ripples during the new year lull
As the end of the financial year draws to a close, now is the season when fashion companies restructure their retail portfolios, with shop closures making way for new shoots to pop up in the following months.
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Sep 23, 2018
The steady pace of mainstream fashion
The cliche, albeit an increasingly true one, that style trends are here today and gone tomorrow continues to define the extremes of the Tokyo fashion scene.
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Jul 22, 2018
Now that's ironic: Untrendy fashion trends
Japanese street style can't help looking back to all those things you thought would never come into fashion.
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
May 27, 2018
On the changing face of Japanese styling
Lifestyles and desires change and fashion has always adapted with the times, but with easier access to global influences, it has become more eclectic than ever. From casual looks to match a lifestyle, to fanciful art collaborations — Japan aims to please all.
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Mar 19, 2018
DressedUndressed: Beyond genderless fashion
DressedUndressed from designers Takeshi Kitazawa and Emiko Sato has been an unassuming yet confident presence at Tokyo fashion week since 2012, when its initial collections courted tailoring connoisseurs with precise unisex attire that scaled in size but otherwise had no gendered distinction. A partnership in both the design and marital sense, the couple have been at the vanguard of unisex design ever since. The brand's shows were first patronized by those seeking a break with the binary, but the collections rapidly won widespread acclaim overseas, while picking up premium rack-space in Japan — all at the label's own thoughtful pace.
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Jan 21, 2018
The 2018 fashion cycle is just beginning
The "new year, new you" cliche that tempts consumers to spend more on style at this time of the year often has even the most cynical admitting that an excuse to indulge feels good. But when it comes to genuinely new fashion, it's actually always lacking at the very start of the year, given that the lion's share of shops are still trying to shift autumn and winter stock, which in the case of autumn was probably on the shelves in mid summer.
Japan Times
COMMUNITY / Our Lives / 20 QUESTIONS
Dec 31, 2017
20 Questions: The best answers of 2017
What brought you to Japan? I came here for the magic. Osaka is home to some of the best close-up magicians in the world.
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Nov 26, 2017
Throwback time for fashion leads to innovation
As regular followers of Japanese fashion can attest, the industry can be seen as somewhat flirtatious, dallying with new debutantes, another sister brand, another collaboration, another short-term "limited shop" or another retail concept that makes the news but doesn't really change the game.
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Oct 28, 2017
Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo: Menswear designers take it back to the streets
The menswear collections on display at Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo in mid-October appear to be pushing irony-drenched streetwear.
Japan Times
COMMUNITY / Our Lives / 20 QUESTIONS
Oct 28, 2017
Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo: A war zone for photographer Cynthia Anderson
'For photographers fashion week means mock military manoeuvres with us lugging our heavy gear around.'
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Sep 24, 2017
Japanese fashion goes pop
Cast your mind back to the giddy days of 2010, when the group of subcultural artists Chaos Lounge issued its first proclamation. While its stated goal was earnest and postmodern, the output was seen as a shock to the art world as it brought the dregs of Japanese pop culture to "white cube" galleries. While Takashi Murakami got away with it by using original characters, the aforementioned group's crime was to splice copyrighted characters and imagery into collages, which ultimately mired the group in controversy.
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Jul 23, 2017
Is Japanese fashion ready to make a point?
A Ha-Ha 2015 runway show included models in wheelchairs
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
May 21, 2017
Blasting the past with a new vision of future fashion
Much has been made of the recent closure of the monthly print edition of Shoichi Aoki's seminal Fruits street-style magazine, with many ready to cry that it sounds the death knell for Harajuku fashion, rather than seeing it as a simple casualty of the rise of new media.
Japan Times
LIFE / Style & Design
Apr 1, 2017
Matohu: Observing tradition in modern design
Design duo Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi have been making the case for the inclusion of Japanese aesthetics in contemporary fashion for more than a decade.
Number of homeless in Japan hits record low
Homeless people sleep on the street in Tokyo's Shinjuku Ward in August 2021.
In Japan, regional revitalization fails to halt population decline
Sakiyama elementary school in Tamba, Hyogo Prefecture, in March .Over the past decade, the government has directed efforts toward policies designed to give young people incentives to base themselves in rural areas.
Town to block view of Mount Fuji in response to overtourism
The town government of Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Prefecture, decided to set up a 2.5-meter-high screen to prevent tourists from taking pictures of Mount Fuji looming behind a convenience store.
Ukraine is far from doomed
When comparing Ukraine’s military situation in 2024 to Europe’s in 1941, Russia’s defeat seems entirely possible.
When will Japan intervene to support the yen?
Finance Minister Shunichi Suzuki has reiterated the government's readiness to take an appropriate action as the yen continues to slide against the U.S. dollar.
Japan wants you to spend more with ‘luxury tourism’
Performers play a traditional drum unique to Wajima, Ishikawa Prefecture, in the prefectural capital of Kanazawa on March 16 to mark the extension of the Hokuriku Shinkansen line to Tsuruga Station in Fukui Prefecture.
Theaster Gates’ ambitious ‘Afro-Mingei’ brings Black Chicago to Tokyo
Theaster Gates' “A Heavenly Chord” lines up church pews before seven speakers and a Hammond B3 organ, a type of electric organ prevalent in Black American churches.
Casa del Cibo: A thriving jewel born from Tohoku’s harsh past
When chef Ryohei Ikemi moved to Hachinohe, Aomori Prefecture, and opened Casa del Cibo in 2011, it was the first proper Italian restaurant in the city.
Town to block view of Mount Fuji in response to overtourism
The town government of Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Prefecture, decided to set up a 2.5-meter-high screen to prevent tourists from taking pictures of Mount Fuji looming behind a convenience store.
Kyotographie's strong 12th edition shines light into the margins
Yassine Alaoui Ismaili, who goes by Yoriyas, turned to photography, shooting motion while in motion himself, after an injury forced him to give up his career as a professional breakdancer.

Podcast

From easily navigable train stations to the helpfulness of its municipal staff, Tokyo has earned high praise for its commitment to accessibility for disabled travelers.
[Rebroadcast] Japan is doing better on accessibility than you may think

Longform

Later this month, author Shogo Imamura will open Honmaru, a bookstore that allows other businesses to rent its shelves. It's part of a wave of ideas Japanese booksellers are trying to compete with online spaces.
The story isn't over for Japan's bookstores
By Alex K.T. Martin

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