Asagaya is a quietly hip part of town with a dense nexus of sake bars, music venues, performance spaces and specialty shops. But once a year, Asagaya throws open its streets, clubs and cinemas to two days of jazz, transforming the neighborhood into Asagaya Jazz Streets.

This festival has grown over the years to become one of the best chances to check out the diversity of Japanese jazz. Ten large public venues, 15 smaller cafes and clubs, seven free street stages and one movie theater host everything from bossa nova to big band, free jazz to Dixieland, and shamisen to synthesizer. The music starts at 6 p.m. on Friday and at noon on Saturday.

This year's lineup includes unknowns alongside regulars on the Tokyo jazz scene. One highlight of the event will be pianist Yosuke Yamashita, who has brought his powerful style of very modern jazz to festivals worldwide. Other interesting groups are Yoshiyuki Yamanaka's Super Band and Tomoki Takahashi's intense postbop quartet. Aquapit, a funky, Hammond B-3 organ-based unit led by Yuta Kaneko, will be a sure favorite. Eiji Taniguchi and his group will offer old-style swing and lovely, lyrical solos. Other tips include straight-ahead trumpeter Yoshiro Okazaki, the vocal-guitar duo Fried Pride and the Mike Price group. But don't miss out on the depth of amateur talent.

If you overdose on live music, the architecturally intriguing Laputa Cinema offers a program of famous jazz films. Also worth checking out in between sets are Asagaya's innumerable small restaurants and drinking establishments, which are particularly welcoming these two nights. With a one- or two-day passport (2,500 yen and 4,000 yen), if you don't like the sound of one performer, you can just wander half a block to catch another. Though some clubs may charge an additional entrance fee, they'll also offer extras. After the scheduled performances stop around 9 p.m., the clubs will continue virtually all night. Manhattan's jam sessions are legendary and will kick into high gear around 1:30 a.m.

Tickets are available at regular ticket outlets. For more information call (03) 5305-5075 or check out asagayajazzst.com (English info available this year!). It's easiest, though, just to go to JR Asagaya Station and listen for the music.