Visitors to Keelung, a mountainous port city on Taiwan’s northern coast, might reasonably think that the white wall at the back of Shi Hui-hua’s breakfast shop is, well, a wall. Only a few air vents suggest that there might be something on the other side.

"It’s a bomb shelter,” said Shi, 53, as she waited for the morning rush. "Because we’re Keelung people, we know these kinds of places.”

"It’s a space for life,” she added. "And a space for death.”