Waseda Dori near JR Takadanobaba Station is dotted with budget restaurants, bars, book shops and travel agencies, all ready to cater to Waseda University students.

Like the bustling street leading to the school, Waseda's campus does not appear overly sophisticated, with old concrete buildings surrounding it.

But a touch of elegance is lent to the austere surroundings by the Tsubouchi Memorial Theater Museum in the middle of the campus, which is dedicated to Shoyo Tsubouchi (1859-1935), founder of Waseda's Department of Literature.