Modern meat alternatives are becoming commonplace, though many 21st-century production processes are not particularly clear to consumers. Where tempeh sets itself apart is in being a wholefood subtly transformed with minimal intervention.

Originating on the Indonesian island of Java, tempeh differs from tofu in that whole beans are fermented and bound with a fungus marbling throughout, forming an edible bean mosaic. Firmer than tofu, tempeh often works better as a direct substitution for meat or even nuts when adapting recipes for vegetarian, vegan or low-allergen eaters — or just for fun.

To that end, in Damascus, herbed, spiced lamb balls cooked atop sauce are known as kebab Hindi. With a bit of streamlining, tomatoes can be baked then topped with tempeh that’s flavored with Syrian pantry staples. The addition of rosemary links the flavor back, for me, to the original lamb dish.