In any other year, the arrival of Toranomon Yokocho would be a major media talking point. After all, this complex of 26 bars and eateries brings together some of Tokyo’s hottest and most respected restaurant names in a way that breaks fresh ground.

The idea of installing branches of Michelin-starred or introduction-only establishments cheek by jowl with yakitori grills, ramen counters and even a takoyaki (octopus dumpling) stand is not totally unprecedented. What is new is getting the high-end restaurants to dress down their menus and offer a la carte options instead of their usual high-end, multicourse menus.

As the name indicates, the idea is to create an up-to-date gourmet version of a traditional yokochō — an enclave of pedestrian alleys lined with small, low-rise restaurants and assorted watering holes — where you can eat, drink and move around, rather than spending the whole evening tied to just one place.