Even before we alight the plane at Ishigaki Airport, passengers have started to comment on the heat. It's around 9 a.m., already topping 34 degrees Celsius and so humid I confess to a twinge of uneasiness.

As a weak swimmer who not only feels uncomfortably restless on a beach but suffers heat exhaustion after mere minutes of sunbathing, for me the Okinawan islands — despite their stunning turquoise waters, white sand and clear blue skies — had never really been top of the to-do list. But when a friend challenged me to try Ishigaki "for just one night" claiming she'd find plenty to do without sun-worshipping or diving, I couldn't help but be intrigued.

Just three hours from Haneda, a 6 a.m. flight gets us to Ishigaki in time for a full day of exploring. Many hotels offer shuttle buses, but we opt for a taxi, hoping the driver will offer a wealth of local information.