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It’s that short but magical time of year when restaurants throw open their doors, tables proliferate along sidewalks and diners take advantage of the balmy evenings. Quick, now, before the muggy midsummer conditions set in for real: This is prime alfresco season and it’s time to book yourself in at Juban Ukyo.

For seven years now, this has been one of the best reasons for making a dedicated trip to Azabu-Juban, and not just when the weather warms up and Ukyo’s compact, stylish terrace comes into play. Year-round, the sophisticated crossover fare here fits this traditional neighborhood with its veneer of foreign influences to a T.

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