Ramen is no longer just ramen. Japan's favorite noodle is changing in front of our eyes, evolving into new forms that have little in common with the classic soul-food bowls of the past.
Some bemoan this as the end of an era. Others call it the most exciting thing to happen to Japanese cuisine in a generation. Tomoharu Shono stands happily in the latter camp. Of course he would: His restaurants are leading the way to this brave new future world of noodles.
Still in his 30s, Shono already has six locations in the Tokyo area and another in San Francisco. None are what you'd call traditional. But it's at his newest venture, Mensho, that he is really charting new territory.