Three things you need to know before seeking out Salmon & Trout: It's a 10-minute walk from the nearest suburban station, both inside and out, it looks as much like a bicycle showroom as it does a restaurant, and rarely — if ever — will the two namesake fish appear on the menu.

Also, don't expect anything as orthodox as an actual written menu: Chef Kan Morieda's extensive and hugely enjoyable meals are far more free-form than that. You squeeze in at his intimate seven-seat counter, and he busies himself in his narrow open kitchen, producing one dish after another. Everyone gets served all at once. Then he gives you a rundown of what's on your plate.

Over the course of the evening, this will be repeated a dozen times or more. From the opening appetizers to the final sweet nibbles some three hours later, Morieda moves constantly between the counter and his simple three-burner stove. Focused yet relaxed — and always dressed casually — he still finds time to pause, look up and discuss details about his ingredients.