The Shinagawa neighborhood of Musashi-Koyama — a vibrant maze of tiny alleyways that once housed dozens of small eateries, tapas restaurants and bars — is now a virtual ghost town.

Just a few months ago, regulars would have struggled to squeeze into the myriad watering holes that filled the neighborhood on any given night after work. It wouldn’t have been unusual to see groups spilling out onto the street, reaching across each other to pick up drinks that were resting on a table inside.

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