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Here’s a scenario few restaurants would dare to dream of: All tables fully booked a month ahead, all year round; lines outside an hour before opening time; a prompt turnover of satisfied customers, with as many as three rotations per evening. And a bulging bottom line.

It sounds almost as unbelievable on the other side of the counter. Gourmet cuisine, prepared to order by chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants, featuring premium ingredients such as lobster, foie gras, duck or wagyū beef — all for a target price (for the food) of ¥3,000 per head.

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