Everyman Eats is a new column about the phenomenon of B-kyū gurume (B-grade gourmet) — inexpensive, down-home cooking that reflects local culinary traditions. This first installment considers 10 moments that helped shape the recent B-kyū boom.

Ramen hits the big screen (1985)

Director Juzo Itami's award-winning comedy "Tampopo" premiered during a national craze for Ogikubo Ramen, a noodle dish made with a fish-based broth and dark soy sauce that's become associated with the eponymous Tokyo district. With quirky subplots featuring food-obsessed characters, "Tampopo" prefigured B-kyū gurume's focus on neighborhood cooking.