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Through the glass doors of the spartan arrivals hall in the airport on Miyako Island, I caught a glimpse of a slightly frail looking man who I figured was the guy I had exchanged a few basic emails with to arrange my trip.

From his blue cowboy shirt and the bandanna around his long sun-bleached hair, he could only be described as a Japanese Willie Nelson. And yes indeed, this was my host: Take-san.

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