From Halong Bay to the Mekong Delta, the flowers, fireworks and festive clothes are being readied: Soon the fun and feasting will begin. China and its vast diaspora may make the most noise at Lunar New Year, but it's no less of a big deal in Vietnam.

Food plays an essential role in Vietnam's Tet New Year celebrations, from the offerings of fruit piled up on family altars to special preparations of steamed sticky rice. In years past we have made special trips to share in the festivities. This time around, we will make do with a visit to a local Vietnamese restaurant. One of our current favorites is The Majestic.

It's named after a classic colonial-era hotel on the waterfront of the Saigon River. But apart from the entrance, with its maroon awning, this friendly little restaurant, unobtrusively located in a basement on Aoyama's Kotto-dori, puts on no airs or pretensions. The look is simple and comfortable, with reproduction furniture, a few ethnic accents and charming hand-painted frescoes on the walls.