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The three sturdy wooden doors that form the frontage of Kinsai open out onto busy Yamate-dori, a 10-minute walk from Naka-Meguro Station. It’s an unromantic location, but that doesn’t deter the well-clad clientele who have been filling the place every night since it opened at the beginning of this month.

There’s a definite buzz going on here — and with very good reason. Kinsai is the latest addition to the stable of estimable eateries created by the people behind To-Vi, the company that more than any in Tokyo has made it hip to eat — and eat well — on your feet.

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