There has been a tremendous buzz recently in Tokyo sommelier circles about an obscure white wine that combines the minerality of Reisling, the zest of Sauvignon Blanc and the floral character of Viognier.
Whether exploring an un-signposted basement wine grotto, or luxuriating in the latest 2000-bottle "cellar in the sky" penthouse restaurant, we've been surprised by how often the talk turns to a new wine that is low in alcohol, aged without oak, and has enough bright acidity to make it a perfect match with any fish dish and most Japanese food.
The new mystery grape is Albarino, with most of the best bottlings coming from Spain's Atlantic coast, just north of the border with Portugal.