We were recently guests at a food and wine pairing session run by renegade chef Eric Gower (his second cookbook, "The Breakaway Japanese Kitchen," will be released this fall by Kodansha International). One wine on the table that stood out above all the rest was a 1997 Arciero Petite Sirah from California. We were surprised to find an aged example of this rare varietal in Japan and even more surprised to learn that it is available on retail shelves here for less than 2,000 yen per bottle.
The Petite Sirah grape has been grown in California for the last 100 years, but, much like Zinfandel, its origins have long been shrouded in mystery. Its namesake, Syrah, has long been considered one of the noble grapes of France, thriving in particular in the northern Rho^ne region. In the 19th century, Syrah-based wines from Hermitage and Co^te Ro^te were ranked on par with the top wines of Bordeaux.
As California's post-Gold Rush vineyard-planting boom gathered momentum, enterprising growers traveled to France to buy vine cuttings. Unsure what would flourish in California, they purchased vines from all the major regions and grape breeders, including the University of Montpellier, home to a major viticulture research institute.