As readers may recall, our last Halloween horror story left us in Chobe national park, Botswana. Not the northern part of Chobe: the part with easy access, good roads, fantastic riverbank campsites and glorious views over the game-rich flood plain to the distant forests of Namibia. No. That would have been far too sensible.

We opted for the southern part of Chobe: Savute. In the dry season, access from the gateway-town of Maun is described in one guidebook as "testing." Another volume alludes to the dirt road featuring "the worst clays in Botswana."

We went after it had rained.