Utter silence —
Piercing the stone walls,
The cicada's cry
— Matsuo Basho (1644-1694)

News photo
The king of the modern yatai is fresh fish, grilled or glazed, like these charcoal-grilled sweetfish.

In the fall of 1989 I started living on the "other side of the mountain" — as former U.S. Ambassador Reischauer described Yamagata Prefecture. Over the next two years I would wander through the Tohoku region of northeastern Japan with a small volume of poems by the haiku master Basho, stopping at each point on his "narrow road to the deep north."