Angola is not a tourist destination for the faint-hearted. In fact, it's probably fair to say that it's not a tourist destination at all. Period.

Diamond-fueled civil war between Jonas Savimbi's UNITA rebels and the Marxist MPLA ruling party headed by President Jose Eduardo dos Santos has wrought havoc ever since this southwest African nation achieved independence from Portugal in 1975. More than a million people have died and 3 million more have been displaced.

What makes this all the sadder is that not only is Angola beautiful, it's endowed with abundant natural resources. It could be rich. As one refugee said, "It used to be a land of milk and honey. Now it's a land of blood and bones."