Recent Vineland columns have focused on distinctive, luxury wines for holiday gift-giving and festive dinners. For our last column in 2001, we pursued an elusive category -- delicious bargain party bottles. It's a tantalizing quest. Few achievements are more gratifying to a wine lover than discovering an affordable indulgence.

If you are looking for an inexpensive sparkler to serve to a crowd, consider Eclipse Methode Traditionelle Brut Cava from Chandon, Spain (1,250 yen; Party, [03] 5424-2580). This grassy, lemon-lime flavored cava is zesty, refreshing and bone-dry.

Pay a few coins more for a step up in quality. One of our favorite bargain bubblies is Parigot Cremant de Bourgogne NV (Enoteca, (03) 3280-3634), available in both white and rose for 1,890 yen. It is made in the classic method associated with champagne, although the term "cremant" indicates a softer fizz. We have bought this wine by the case for parties; it is always well-received.