Have you ever seen the Woody Allen movie "Radio Days"? In it, Woody grows up with his family, living snug-as-bugs in a tiny room underneath the Big Dipper on Coney Island. Every time a roller coaster careens overhead, the walls shake and objects pogo off the tables. Of course, nobody notices. It was funny. And it's the only thing I remember about the movie.

While the Yamanote Line is hardly a roller coaster, it does do a horizontal loop-the-loop around Tokyo. And when I first heard of a bar tucked under its tracks in Shibuya, the thought made me smile. And then, once I had installed myself at the bar -- listening to some chill acid jazz, martini in hand -- a train rattled and screeched overhead, and I nearly fell off my stool, laughing.

P-chan chats with a customer.