The next time you shop for wine, consider turning it into a leisurely expedition to Le Vin Vivant. Start in the store's cool, gold-painted cafe with a tasting of five recommended wines. The selection changes every other week and costs 1,800 yen (single glasses are 300 yen). If you are feeling peckish, sample the French cheeses as well (a plate of five is 1,200 yen). The tasting will fortify you for a treasure hunt in the adjoining stucco-and-timber wine cellar.

Le Vin Vivant is the direct importer for many of the interesting bottles in its climatized, three-room cave. In addition to precious Bordeaux and Burgundy, the shop specializes in tracking down affordable discoveries from up-and-coming appellations such as Languedoc-Roussillon. On a recent visit, for example, we came across spicy Rhone reds from the excellent 1998 vintage, including Vacqueyras Cuvee Seigneur de Lauris (1,680 yen) and Cha^teau de Saint-Cosme Gigondas (3,200 yen).

Although the emphasis is decidedly French, the shelves also contain intriguing finds from other countries, such as Italy (check out 1996 Paolo Scavino Barolo Canubi -- a favorite of wine guru Robert Parker) and Austria (1998 St. Severin Blauer Zweigelt Kremstal is a graceful red from a country traditionally known for white wines).