During the red wine boom of the '90s, one shade of white prevailed: Chardonnay. Most often produced in a big, rich, oaky international style, it was the heaviest, "reddest" white wine on the scene.
These days, wine fans are rediscovering the full range of whites. When we survey sommeliers and waiters about diners' current favorites, the buzzword is Sauvignon Blanc. This grape is traditionally known for the crisp, flinty dry whites of France's Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume regions. In recent years, however, New Zealand's Marlborough region has made its mark with peppery, citrus-driven Sauvignon Blancs that have set a contemporary standard for the varietal.
Unlike the butter-and-vanilla scent of heavily oaked Chardonnay, classic Sauvignon Blanc has almost startlingly funky aromas of grass, herbs and a musky, ammonia note (irreverently called "cat's piss" among wine professionals). It is leaner, more zesty and thirst-quenching than most Chardonnays -- and its clean, citrus-infused character makes Sauvignon Blanc a perfect summer wine.