Arriving at Ca Angeli for the first time, you will be forgiven for wondering which is more important, the kitsch or the kitchen.

The first thing you see is a bronze -- almost life-size -- of a young couple, smartly dressed, as if they've just come straight from the office, but both endowed with the wings of angels. Inside, there are cherubim and seraphim everywhere -- on the logo, out on the little patio and plastered all over the walls of the stylish inner dining room.

It looks like an exercise in unadulterated whimsy, but do not be deterred. The sparkling contemporary Italian cuisine served up by owner-chef Hiroshi Satake is light, attractive and completely free of superfluous frills or fussiness.