If it's possible to have a "green thumb," as some grape growers fortunately do, can one also possess a "golden toe" -- a knack for stumbling onto serendipitous discoveries? I've begun to think so. In fact, I'm keeping notes for what could be titled "The Little Book of Serendipitous Slip-Ups," "Glorious Gaffes" or "Fabulous Faux Pas."

In my travels in the international wine world, I've sometimes stumbled onto some remarkable discoveries. One of my more memorable golden-toe adventures came to mind the other day as I contemplated a glass of good tawny port, my favorite fortified wine.

During a visit to Lisbon in 1989 I hopped into a cab one day and confidently told the driver to take me to a particular wine institute. Just as confidently he took me to a barely noticeable place, quite unlike the historic stone edifice I'd expected. Where were the imposing columns, the mosaic glass windows, the Moorish flourish? Nowhere to be seen.