Mention Mount Koya, a highland in the north-central part of the Kii Peninsula in Wakayama Prefecture, and most people think immediately of the priest Kukai (774-835). Also known as Kobo Daishi, Kukai was the founder of the Shingon sect of esoteric Buddhism, and Mount Koya became the new sect's headquarters.

But an exhibition currently at Tokyo National Museum, titled "Kukai and Mount Koya," goes beyond a history lesson to immerse viewers in the sea of artworks that flowed into the vibrant Buddhist center. It's a powerful experience.

Visitors are plunged straight in with "Rokoshiiki," a comparative study of Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism by Kukai. The Chinese letters, written by the author with solid and rhythmical strokes, express the intellect and confidence of the 24-year-old seeker who had set his mind on studying Buddhism after a period of spiritual distress.