It is a mystery. How people took threads of silk and steeped them in poetry, passion and pride. How the line between art and life blurred in the weaver's hands. How, in short, Japanese artisans created garments that went far beyond fashion to enter the timeless realm of beauty.

Some of the finest examples of textile art can be admired in "Masterpieces of Japanese Dress" at the Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum in Shinjuku. This is a rare display of treasures from the collection of Asia's leading fashion institute. Besides their sheer good looks, the garments are full of allusions to Japanese history and literature.

Four categories of dress are displayed: kosode ("short sleeved") kimono of wealthy townspeople; costumes from the noh theater; dress of the military classes; and attire of the Imperial court. Most date from the late 18th century, and all have been carefully preserved.