Orren Tanabe stands tall above the rest of the crowd in front of Shinjuku's ALTA sign. Having not made this a meeting place for years, the experience is proving more than a little nostalgic. Knowing the way central Tokyo changes at the tip of a hat, he leads the way to a favorite pizza dive with some trepidation: What to do and where to go if it's not there? It is.

Tanabe is in a state of exhausted euphoria. Three weeks ago, his Japanese wife, Azusa, had their first baby — a daughter named Jenna — and she's up in Gunma, being helped out by her mother.

Yes, he admits, it's pretty tiring making the long trip from Tokyo several times a week, but Azusa is bringing the baby home soon. Then, he supposes, he will really find out what being tired is all about.