An unintentionally caustic remark on one of the information boards that adorn Rainbow Bridge exposes the Gordian knot resting at the center of the vast Odaiba reclamation project in Tokyo Bay.

"In the distance are Mount Fuji and the Keihin/Keiyou oil refineries," it reads.

The challenge is an unenviable one: How do you build a recreational beauty spot amid a sea of ugly industrial mayhem?