WASHINGTON -- As a born-again nonsmoker (when I was three a great aunt tied a white ribbon around my wrist signifying a commitment never to smoke, a promise on my behalf that for years I chose not to honor), it is a joy to be in a country where smoking is all but prohibited. Here there are neither smoking nor non-smoking areas; like airplanes, all smoking is forbidden. It is a hardship for smokers and I sympathize with them, finding isolated out-of-doors corners where they can assemble with their like-minded addicts for considerably limited enjoyment of a cigarette.

That's a big plus for non-smokers, a tremendous downer for those who still smoke, a dwindling number. But there are other surprises. The other day, my husband, a new and pleasant term for me to be using since it's not yet three months since we married and subsequently left Japan, realized he was a few days overdue for his car inspection. He drove to his neighborhood garage, a mechanic checked areas of possible concern, and he was back in less than an hour. The cost? $10. I also like the fact that if people litter they may face a $1,000 fine. Another recommended regulation: At many hospitals, parents leaving with a new baby must demonstrate that they know how to keep an infant safe in a car carrier.

I am not yet ready to open the door to what I miss about Japan.